"Fooding has not succeeded in replacing Michelin": the gastronomic guide celebrates its 20th anniversary in the midst of an existential crisis

Posted on November 18, 2020 at 12:01 a.m., updated yesterday at 11:14 a.m.

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The gastronomic guide claims rigor but also lightness and celebration.After the takeover by the Michelin guide, will his spirit of irreverence still be so strong?

A crowd of 500 guests gathered in front of Le Président, in Belleville (Paris, 20th arrondissement), wearing Angela Merkel and Jacques Chirac masks.Inside the Chinese restaurant, we sip Veuve Clicquot, nibbling on high-end merguez pizzettes.The fauna is, as always, colorful: chefs, but also stars and artists, such as Bérénice Bejo, Michel Hazanavicius, Kiddy Smile, Romain Duris or JoeyStarr.This is what the annual Fooding event looked like in November 2019.

“If we defended cool today, we would be beside our pumps”, Alexandre Cammas, founder of Fooding.

A year later, no bamboche to celebrate the guide's 20 years.Instead, Fooding sent 250 people a box full of all kinds of delicacies: a Hokkaido squash soup signed Inaki Aizpitarte, a dish of quail with curd juice by Alexandre Gauthier, edible coffee cups ...Obviously, if the party is canceled, it is because of the pandemic.

But health restrictions are far from being the only upheaval shaking Fooding.With the 100% takeover by Michelin in September and the departure of the founder, Alexandre Cammas, scheduled for April 2021, the crisis is internal.And existential: in 2020, the world of "food" has nothing to do with that of the beginning of the millennium.Twenty years later, can Fooding still be "the taste of the times" (its slogan since 2005? )?

Posted Date: 2020-11-20

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